Dita Von Teese, a Burlesque superstar and red lipstick savant, once said, ‘Heels and lipstick will put the fear of God into people.’ No truer words have been spoken. From a confidence boost to making an outfit, red lipstick has been there for anyone who needs its familiarity.
Even though red lipstick started as a symbol worn by prostitutes in ancient Greece, it evolved in the 1910s into an iconic symbol worn during the suffragette movement, a symbol of protest. Beauty entrepreneur Elizabeth Arden inspired women such as Charlotte Perkins Gilman, Elizabeth Cady Stanton, and Emmeline Pankhurst to wear red lipstick as a symbol of bravery while she handed out lipstick tubes to suffragettes in 1912.
According to Janet Curmi, the Vice President of global education and development at Elizabeth Arden, “On November 9, 1912, 20,000 women took to the streets of New York to advocate for the right to vote. Elizabeth Arden, a dedicated suffragette herself, opened the doors of her New York spa to hand out her Venetian Lip Paste and Venetian Arden Lip Pencil before joining the suffragettes marching down Fifth Avenue as a sign of solidarity. The most striking sight was the bold red colour on the women’s lips.”
Over the following decades, red lipstick grew in popularity and became a staple. In 1933, Vouge declared, “If we were perpetuating the gestures of the 20th century for posterity, putting on lipstick would head the list.”
During World War II, red lipstick evolved from a symbol of protest to a symbol of femininity and resilience. Shades like “Patriot Red,” “Fighting Red!” and “Victory Red!” became increasingly popular. There were speculations that Hitler hated red lipstick – mainly because of its connotations to independence, freedom, female drive, confidence and rebellion – many women wore it to spite him. Elizabeth Arden created a hue of red lipstick to complement the vibrant crimson accents of the female Marines’ uniforms, and the factory dressing areas were stocked to the brim with lipstick to increase the workers’ morale. This act of defiance, of wearing red lipstick in the face of fascism and the rigid regulations that Hitler implemented for women, was a powerful symbol of resistance.
Red lipstick continued to be popular even after World War II, with icons like Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe making it a fundamental fashion statement. Today, it remains a staple part of a celebrity’s ensemble, as seen in Taylor Swift’s trademark red lip. This enduring popularity underscores the timeless appeal and cultural significance of red lipstick.
Still, its enduring charm continues to engage and inspire individuals, solidifying its role as a symbol of defiance and resilience. In 2018, the #SoyPicoRojo movement in Nicaragua saw both men and women sporting red lipstick as they protested against the country’s dictatorship. In 2019, countless women in Chile wore red lipstick to speak out against sexual violence, demonstrating that the striking red lip remains perennially in vogue.
Given its enduring charm and historical significance, it’s worth considering why red lipstick hasn’t been used more in modern protests. With women’s rights being slowly stripped away in the US, particularly in light of Roe v Wade and the new executive order on diversity, equality, and inclusion that’s currently temporarily blocked by the Federal Court, perhaps it’s time for people to band together and use red lipstick as a symbol of defiance and resilience.
Kendrick Lamar’s Superbowl halftime show was a defiant moment that went beyond entertainment, using lyrics and striking imagery to challenge Donald Trump and highlight the deep divisions in America. Still, it didn’t score a direct hit on Trump himself. Who knows? Maybe red lipstick can stick where Lamar didn’t.
Hannah Costello – Co-Editor
