As someone who adheres to a mostly gluten-free diet–and not by choice – I don’t typically focus on food when I travel. The options usually aren’t a destination for me, and most of the time, I’m just doing my best not to end up debilitated by accidentally eating more gluten than I can handle. If I do eat something local, I usually have to pay for expensive substitutions. This was thankfully not the case on my most recent trip to Tralee, where I was greeted with a plethora of gluten-free options and indulged in affordable and popular treats with wonderful company and stunning panoramas.
I set out for a weekend in Tralee to visit a dear friend and to enjoy a beautiful part of Ireland. As a resident of the UCD campus, my trip began with the unfortunate new necessity of a connection from UCD to Dublin Heuston (rumblings of frequent direct buses persist, but until then, I lay figurative flowers on the grave of the 145). On the culinary side, my trip began with a packet of Taytos on the trolley–I had to start somewhere. I looked over our schedule. We planned to enjoy breakfast, coffee, and dinner in town on Friday. On Saturday, we would cook and bake our own food during the day before enjoying a final dinner together that evening.
The Kerry mountains welcomed our train to Tralee Casement Station, named after Roger Casement, the Easter Rising leader and notable writer. I spilt out onto the platform with other eager travellers, exiting via the gate next to the main building with its six symmetrically arched windows punctuating its stately facade. My lovely friend, host, and local tour guide and I decided to try out Brio Brunch, a newly opened spot decorated with minimalist design and plastic vines threaded along the walls. My friend ordered loaded chips, and I opted for a gluten-free turkey sandwich. Unfortunately, the dishes were slow to appear and were lacklustre when they arrived. My friend’s chips were unharmonious, the flavours and spice failing to tango with the gravy or the meat. My sandwich faced the test of gluten-free bread: will it not only taste like bread but also be moist and stretchy enough to enjoy as a handheld entity without falling apart? Unfortunately, the gluten-free bread immediately crumbled in my hands and caked into dry pads on my plate and mouth. This would have been acceptable five years ago, but plenty of delicious, pliable gluten-free breads are now on the market and available to restaurants. I wondered if this meal was a harbinger of what lay ahead. If so, we were doomed to a weekend of subpar vittles and neglectful service.
We cut our losses and tried to forget breakfast with what we knew would be a resounding success: Maddens Café. Situated on Milk Market Lane, the cave-like interior enveloped me and my friend in intimate warmth. We ordered ‘Cheeky Chai’ lattés, Maddens’ take on a dirty chai that somehow incorporates the earthy punch of the espresso while allowing all of the richness of the chai to blossom. My mouth watered while watching the barista steam the milk, which would become the vessel for our sips of spiced heaven. We scratched the ears of Maddens’ dogs in residence, a yorkie named Maggie and a fluffy pup named Winston, who wagged their tails and watched us with soft brown eyes.
A visit to Maddens is a lesson in how an establishment can express joy in its authentic self and the community which it serves. The knowledgeable baristas are neither rude nor overly effusive, setting a precedent of self-confidence and ease which permeates the space and those sharing it. A neon sign reading “Tralee My Love” imbues the space with a reddish glow, bringing out the naturally warm hues in the bricks and wooden furniture. I don’t usually pay much attention to the merchandise in cafés. Still, Maddens’ mix of bags and mugs, which proclaim their pride for Tralee, along with postcards featuring local artists and Tralee-specific scenes, further centres a message: we belong here, and so do you. We are proud to be here, and you should be, too.
Freshly caffeinated, we explored Fenit Beach and visited Saint Brendan’s statue. We enjoyed views of Kerry’s soaring mountains and expansive oceanic horizons glittering in rare sunshine before heading to the newly-opened Kyoto Sushi for our dinner. We visited on Valentine’s Day–Galentine’s Day to us–and although the kitchen was awash in takeaway orders, we were served with promptness and deft skill. Here, we indulged in duck reposing on a bed of plump rice and a carefully sliced, delicately presented salmon avocado roll. It should be noted that these dishes were not entirely gluten-free; those who require fully gluten-free food should consult the menu and staff before ordering. However, we thankfully were able to enjoy this delightful meal without incident. The dish was enough for two people; its crispy skin gracefully gave way to the tender meat below. The luscious teriyaki sauce was not overly sweet and provided enough umami to uplift the gamey flavour without stealing its spot on centre stage. The avocado in the sushi rolls provided a creamy canvas for the robustly salty salmon.
We closed the evening with drinks at Roundy’s, where eclectic signage adorned the walls, and both stone outcroppings and charmingly mismatched chairs served as seats. I enjoyed their signature cocktail, the Lost Days of Summer, while my friend ordered their Valentine’s Day special cocktail. Rhubarb and lemon synergised brightly with watermelon in my drink, creating a tangy yet enticing medley that perfectly complemented the piney gin. My friend’s drink was less complex, taking on an almost completely sweet flavour profile, but it was still delightfully delicious and fitting to the holiday theme. The bartender prepared our drinks expertly with unassuming yet impressive flourishes, ending our main dining day on a mixological high.
After enjoying coffee, breakfast, cookies, and lunch lovingly created in the culinary studio (my friend’s kitchen), we opted for a Tralee favourite for our final night. We ordered crispy chicken pieces from Lana Street Food’s takeaway menu. We collected our food from a vestibule bustling with customers. This endorsement proved entirely warranted as we munched chicken, which was crispy on the outside and moist on the inside, fortified with an ample serving of fries and a tangy, sweet sauce. The price, €8.50, for a meal which neither of us could finish, was extremely reasonable and very well appreciated by our student budgets. It’s not usual for me to find tasty, affordable, deliciously breaded gluten-free chicken – I’m often left with it lying naked next to some sauce – so this crispy chicken earned my admiration and recommendation in mere bites.
Sadly, the time printed on my train ticket grew near, and we returned to the steepled roof and sturdy brick of Casement Station. I boarded the train, already missing my friend and Tralee. To console myself as we snaked our way back east between ancient mountains, I munched one of our homemade gluten-free cookie bars we had made in honour of Galentine’s Day. The chewy, brown sugar bites were interspersed with crunch from the candy hearts we had mixed in and sprinkled on top. Perfectly salted and enticingly sweet without grazing the line of sickeningly so, the bars boasted both the structural integrity and dense moistness I search for in gluten-free food.
I reflected on the weekend. Both in town and at home, Tralee had not disappointed. This time, as I rolled back towards Heuston, I declined the offer of Taytos from the trolley. I certainly was not hungry.
Edie Weinstein – A&L Editor
